Rainy Day Adventures: Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

I’m not a fan of huge cities. They are noisy, overwhelming, and so fast-paced I can barely keep up. It’s one reason why I only tend to make short visits to Seoul. On this particular weekend, I decided to venture outside of Seoul and explore Suwon, which is a common commute to the capital for many residents. It happened to be a long weekend, and we were eager to take advantage of it. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans and it rained the entire trip. Not to be hindered, we packed our umbrellas for our outing.

Arriving at the Suwon bus terminal, we huddled under our umbrellas and embarked on our day’s adventure. Instantly I was captivated by the city’s charm, despite the dreary weather. There are not a lot of cities I immediately love, but Suwon won me with its mixture of history and modern city structure. Suwon boasts a unique blend of old and new, with its centerpiece being the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress.

Built during the 18th century Joseon Dynasty by King Jeongjo, the fortress city was not only designed to create a strong economic system and stronghold but also show the king’s piety toward his late father by housing the remains of the infamous Price Sado—a figure regarded both as a victim and perpetrator, entangled in conflicting narratives. Undeniably he was a murderer of over 100 people, yet his story has grabbed the attention of many historians. The story of Prince Sado and his identity, whether his actions were justified by mental illness and anger issues, possibly influenced by the palace politics and constant belittling from his father, is often debated. It wasn’t until the deaths of dozens of people that his father ordered him locked away in a rice chest until he died. Various adaptions depicting Prince Sado’s life from different perspectives have made his story more known to outside viewers and created discussions on what really happened to create a murderer in the palace. Hence, it’s fascinating to see how Suwon’s Fortress was established as a symbol of both strength and homage to a fallen prince with a complicated past.

korean couple walking in the rain under umbrellas at korean fortress hwaseong

city view of suwon in south korea on rainy day

biker with umbrella going under gate of hwaseong fortress in suwon

Perched on the hills of the city, the fortress offers a breathtaking scene and the perfect vantage point of Suwon’s new urban landscape. The walls provide the perfect panorama view. King Jeongjo’s vision and guidance from engineers, along with his desire of incorporating contemporary technology and hope to create a city with thriving economic and political value is evident. The formidable defensive structure is hard to miss, and one of the notable points when walking along the walls. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical significance, as I walked along the long stone walls enclosing the fortress, it was impressive to take in, and understandable why it has such value to Korean history and architecture.